Twelfth Night in Italy wouldn't be the same without the Epiphany Witch on her broomstick, delivering presents down chimneys (or via the central heating) for all good children - and naughty ones too, in spite of what anyone says. Which is maybe why the provider of this recipe, Maria Gametti of the market town of Barga in the mountains north of Lucca, showed me a small pair of spiked tongs she used to rough up the marzipan-topping before baking. La Befana, unlike parents, is happy to take the rough with the smooth.
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