Cookstory extra

with a recipe for a classic risotto Milanese

The classic Milanese risotto, writes Elizabeth David in Italian Food in 1954, comes in three basic versions, all coloured with saffron. The simplest is made with butter, chicken stock and parmesan; a richer version includes beef marrow and white wine; the third omits the beef marrow and white wine in favour of a darkish, sweetish Marsala.